Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do you offer kits for cars or trucks other than the 47-55 1st series AD short bed
A: NO. We specialize in the 47-55.1 AD Trucks, Burbs and Panels and will not be building kits for any other
makes, models or body styles.
YES. Our Burb/Panel kits were discontinued due to lack of demand but we may be bringing them out again since
demand has been increasing. Contact us for more info.
Q: Do the 47-53 trucks use the same kit as the 54-55 trucks?
A: Yes. The 54-55 trucks have a deeper bed. Our kits are designed for use with any year 47-55 1st series.
Q: Does the sheet metal line up the same as on the stock truck?
A: Yes. We designed our kit to keep the factory look with as little extra work as possible.
Q: I have limited skills. Will I be able to install this kit?
A: Yes. We designed the kit to be simple to install. Numerous factory S10 frame holes are used to locate and
install the kits. Only simple hand/power tools are necessary. You will need to drill to install the kit components.
Q: The wheelbase on the AD truck is 116 but the WB on the S10 LB Standard Cab is
117.9", will this work?
A: Yes. The rear wheels on the stock AD truck set two inches too far forward in the wheel wells. Using the
longer S10 frame centers the wheels in the wells.
Q: Can I use a Blazer frame?
A: NO. The Blazer frame is narrower under the cab and a good wheelbase is not available.
Q: Can I use an Extended Cab short box truck frame.
A: Yes. You'll have to break the factory weld holding the front and rear frame halves together. Then cut off
and slide the rear frame half five inches forward and re-weld this all square and level. The regular long bed
S10 frame does not require this modification.
Q: What is the best year S10/S15 frame to use?
A: The S10/S15 frames are very similar. Any long bed regular cab frame from as early as 1982 to as late as
2003 will work. Earlier years tend to be cheaper and easier to use with our new kits.
Q: What wheelbases are available for the S10 truck frames?
A: Regular cab short box - 108.3"
Regular cab long box - 117.9" This is what you will need for our kit.
Extended cab short box - 122.9"
Q: Do you have a kit so I can use a 4wd frame?
A: NO. Our kits are designed to work on 2wd frames. The 4wd frame is considerably different than the 2wd.
Q: My AD truck has an eight foot bed. Do you have a kit for this?
A: NO. Due to lack of demand we no longer offer kits for this swap.
Q: My truck is a 1947 to early 1951 nine plank bed. Will your kit allow me to use the
stock bed wood?
A: Yes. We updated our bed cross members to accept 47-55.1 bed wood.
Q: What are some of the differences in the S10 frames?
1982-1983 No spare tire winch built in / No ext. cabs available / Spare tire x-member must be removed.
1985 Fuel Injection begins on the 2.8L V6 means different fuel lines.
1988 4.3L V6 with EFI introduced means different fuel lines.
1989 Rear ABS introduced
1991 Turbo charged AWD GMC Syclone introduced
1994 ZQ8 Sport Suspension package introduced / New body style introduced
1996 Four wheel ABS available on all S10's
1998 Four wheel disc brakes
1999 S10 Extreme introduced
!! DO NOT USE ANY ZR2 FRAME OR AXLE. BOTH ARE TOO WIDE !!
Q: Can I get bigger brakes for the S10?
A: Yes. You can use aftermarket products available from many sources or you can swap in the spindles, rotors
and calipers, as an assembly, from the 1998+ 2wd S10 Blazers. These have larger rotors and dual piston calipers.
You'll need to spend about $2.00 on brass adapter fittings to get the hoses to mate up.
Q: What can I do to make my truck handle better?
A: For the front I'd suggest Moog front coil springs, Belltech 2" drop spindles, 98+ Blazer rotors and dual piston
calipers, polyurethane bushings, ZQ8 steering box and swaybar, TRW heavy duty steering linkage and
Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks. For the rear I'd go with Belltech drop leaf springs (blocks if you are on a
budget), urethane bushings, Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks and ZQ8 sway bar. Also, you can relocate the
battery behind the passenger side rear wheel well. You can get the factory 3rd shock and bracket that
connects from the rear axle to the frame. Wheels and tires are up to you. Size, looks and comfort are
Q: What about the so-called "B-Body" brake swap?
A: Sounds great until you find out what bump steer is and how it feels when you're driving!!
Q: I've installed my kit and the S10 frame looks narrow under the body. What do I do?
A: For the front we suggest 2" to 2.5" billet wheel spacers. The good kind bolt to the rotor and have an extra
set of lug nuts to bolt the wheel on. For the rear use a 4wd truck/Blazer axle. The 4wd axle (59") is a bolt-in
replacement for the 2wd but it is five inches wider. DO NOT USE A ZR2 4wd rear axle.
Q: I installed my kit and the truck sits too high. What's up? (no pun intended)
A: What's up is that you still need to add about two thousand pounds of stuff including engine, transmission,
drive shaft, interior, gauges, wiring, fluids, etc, etc. This will drop the truck a few inches normally. If you
want more, the aftermarket is ripe with S10 suspension products to help you slam the frame all the way to
the ground, if that's what you want. Nearly all of our customers are using a 2/3 suspension drop.
Q: What is actually in the ZQ8 Sport Suspension package?
A: The main components are:
- Front coil Springs - lowered
- Short Shocks
- 3rd shock "No Hop Shock"
- Rear Frame Brace
- Rear Leaf Springs - lowered
- Front and Rear Stabilizer bars
- Quick Ratio Steering Box
- Lower Control Arms
Q: Will my Motor Vehicle Department or Police have a problem with my frame being
different than my body?
A: That will depend on your states laws. We always suggest you get a title or at least some sort of Bill of Sale
for your donor frame. Not to mention, if you need to get replacement parts the dealer will require a VIN
number. Check with your local Motor Vehicle Dept and State Police to be sure.
Q: I heard there were secret VIN numbers on the frame. Is this true?
A: Yes and No. Yes, there are eight digits stamped into two places on the S10 frame. A check digit and the last
seven digits of the VIN. If you are going to look up parts you will need the last eight digits of the VIN. This
is why we tell you to get the VIN off the donor truck. A good place to get it is off the glove box door. Most
years have an RPO code sticker here. Peel it off and keep it. The 3-digit codes shown all over this sticker
are a great key to decoding what equipment your S10 came with. This is also where you go to look for the
ever elusive ZQ8 option code. The stock AD truck NEVER had frame numbers stamped by the factory, no
matter what any motor vehicle department or law enforcement officer tells you.
Q: Can I use S10/V8 engine swap mounts?
A: No. The engine compartments of the AD truck and the S10 truck sit in different places on the S10 frame.
The AD firewall is about four inches further back than the S10 firewall. We normally slide the whole drive line
back about four inches to get a one inch clearance to the firewall. Aftermarket S10/V8 mounts normally don't
position the engine/trans in the correct location for the 1947-1955.1 series trucks.
Q: Do you offer motor mounts or transmission cross member?
A: We have bolt on motor mount kits available for the V8's. These will not work with the V6 engines. We also
offer a transmission cross member that integrates with the engine mounts and new frame swap kits. This
combination will align the engine/trans to the correct offset and driveline angle regardless of transmission choice.
Q: Can I use my stock radiator?
A: YES! Our new kits have been designed to accept the use of a stock radiator.
Q: Do you offer front or rear bumper brackets?
A: All kits now include front and rear bumper brackets.
Q: What do the kits include?
A: Kits include:
*Front Bumper Brackets
*Radiator Support Brackets and Crossmember Assembly
*Cab Mounts and Polyurethane Bushings
*Running Board Supports
*Rear Bed Supports
*Rear Bumper Brackets
*Large Format Instruction Manual with Diagrams
*Hardware for kit installation
Q: Should I paint or powder coat the frame before I install the kit?
A: NO,NO,NO,NO,NO! You should always pre-install all parts first. During pre-installation you will double
check measurements, make any minor adjustments, grind areas clean that need a tight fit for bolting or
welding. Make final decisions on how you'd like complimentary parts to fit such as the engine and
transmission mounts. After all the body components are on and all the gaps are to your liking you can
then go on to final prep and painting or powder coating of the frame. PAINTING OR POWDER COATING
FIRST WILL ALWAYS END UP CAUSING EXTRA WORK AND EXPENSE TO DEAL WITH LATER!
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